A Totally New Year

In 2009, I will:
  1. Amanecer una fiesta. — In Spanish, amanecer literally means "to dawn." In Peru, it means to dance until morning. I plan on accomplishing this one New Year's Eve-Day, 5th Grade sleepover style: fueled by caffeine/sugar and peer pressure.
  2. Make homemade peanut butter. — I already have the recipe!
  3. Grow something. — I'm thinking lettuce.
  4. See Grupo 5 live. — Grupo 5 is probably the greatest cumbia band in all of Peru. Roughly 5/6 cumbia songs on the radio are by them.
  5. Go to Mancora. — Rumored to be the most beautiful beach in Peru and conveniently located two 1/2 hours from my site.
  6. Do something totally unforgettable for someone else. — I haven't quite figured this one out yet ...
  7. Re-read Harry Potter 1-7. — Purely selfish on my part.

These, of course, are all in addition to the vanilla new year's resolutions: self-improvements ... mind, body and soul.

¡Feliz Año Nuevo!

My first Navidad

It began with a soul-rattling shriek of a dying pig at 5 a.m. The screams (which can only be described as demonic) woke me with a start and provided just the motivation to get up and go running — if only to get away from the bone-chilling sounds of an animal taking 5 minutes to bleed to death.

After my run, my host mom offered me some fried piece of the poor little creature for breakfast. I passed and opted for simple tea and popcorn. I’m so happy other countries appreciate such delicious culinary marvels as much as we Americans. I am equally as giddy about the fact that as a gringa most of the things I do are considered odd, so when I actually do something a little quirky (like popcorn for breakfast), people just shrug their shoulders in a gesture of passive acceptance. It’s very liberating.

The rest of my Buena Noche (Christmas Eve) passed quite pleasantly despite the heat. There was a visit to Amara, another volunteer close by; followed by a delicious lunch of rice, chicken and lentils (lentils!! I never get alternative sources of protein); and a solid 3-hour block lost in Kristin Gore’s Sammy’s Hill.

Around 7 p.m., I felt it: the crippling weight of being away on Christmas. It wasn’t so much that I wanted to be home — though I did — it was more that Christmas is always a time when you are with the people you love and who love you. You eat, you play, you fight — that’s Christmas. But here I was, smack in the middle of South America surrounded by a crowd of people — not one of whom really knew me — and man, I felt lonely. Trying to call home was a fiasco, but I finally got through. And in between a fit of heaving sobs, I was able to (at least vocally) be with my family on Christmas Eve.

Thankfully for me, Buena Noche is anything but solemn and calm. It culminates in a wonderful swirling mass of fireworks, hot chocolate, cake and food, which didn’t allow me to be too sad for too long.

Dinner’s eaten at midnight, and everyone went to my host grandmother’s home for the meal. My five-year-old cousin, Sheik, poor thing, was sick, and wouldn’t even eat my cookies! But the rest of the fiesta was a riot of cumbia music, fireworks and joyfully squealing children in the streets. We stumbled into bed at 2:30 a.m., full and thoroughly exhausted.

Three other volunteers (the Saritas and Michelle) and I spent Christmas Day at the beach, reading paperbacks and bathing in the warm but powerful waves of the Equatorial Pacific. We sang carols to ourselves despite a curious/annoyed nearby audience. We ate fresh fish and reminisced about Holiday traditions back home. In short, it was awesome.

I say boldly and without shame of corniness that I felt incredibly grateful to be with my friends, celebrating life instead of sulking in our rooms, wishing we were back in the States.

I realized as I made my way home how important my family of other Peace Corps volunteers has become to me — especially right now. When everything is new and exciting and daunting all at the same time. When every day we have to make the decision of whether to stay in and hide or to step outside and engage. As supportive as our host families are, our short few weeks with them pales greatly in comparison to those we left behind to come here. And it’s cheering to know that we have this bridge to help us mend the gap.

I hope everyone had a wonderful Christmas. When you get a chance, please send me a note to tell me how it was. I’d love to hear!

Me with my family

Me with my friend, Sarah, at the beach on Christmas Day

Feliz Navidad

I made the mistake the other day of watching Bridget Jones’ Diary. Although normally a wonderful cinematic classic appropriate for any occasion, I got to that last scene and WHAM! — it hit me: Man, I miss snow.

Lately, I’ve been trying to pretend that Navidad is some Peruvian holiday completely devoid of any sentimental attachment. And it’s been pretty easy for the most part. Peru (especially Tumbes) is in its summer; every day is hotter than the day before. Instead of candy canes and Christmas cookies, there is panetón and hot chocolate. Cumbia is still on every radio station and none of the soap operas have even started that two-week long Christmas Day celebration.

Seeing that snow shattered any barrier I had between me and the inevitable First Christmas Away From Home. I figured I had two choices: crawl into my room and watch Harry Potter 1-5 on DVD, drowning myself in a whirlpool of mindless technology. Or celebrate Christmas.

The jury’s still out. But I’m pretty sure I’m going to celebrate Christmas. I’ve made Christmas cards and paper snowflakes. I took a stab at baking homemade cookies (btw chocolate chip is a BIG win with the Peruvians). I’ve even negotiated a split time-schedule with my family for Christmas Eve: For every two cumbia songs, I get one of my Christmas classics. I’m interested in seeing if my family appreciates Bing Crosby’s “Let it Snow” as much as I do …

And I’m going to think of every body back home the whole day. Because even though I’m not there, (yes, this is going to get corny) I’d like to think that if we think of each other at the same time, it’s like we’re celebrating Christmas together.

Oh, and I’m going to the beach. … So that should, umm, cool the sting a little.
MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE!

Catching up

I’m sorry, I’m sorry. I know I should be writing more often. The truth is that I’ve been wrapped up in a weird combination of work, sickness, emotional trials and integration. It’s a totally valid excuse; allow me to explain:

On the work front, I’ve been keeping pretty busy. I’m in and out of meetings a lot, trying to get things moving. I’ll be teaching a couple summer classes: A life skills class in the high school and Basic English class in the primary school.

I’m working with a local youth group in developing a peer educator program for the health post, which will last throughout all of 2009.

The health post is training in 11 new health promoters for the community and has asked me to help with the sessions. Once trained, the promoters will be able to go out into the community and assist families in really whatever basic health needs they come across (and most importantly how to prevent them): nutrition, hygiene, clean water, respiratory infections, HIV/AIDS – you name it.

And somewhere in the middle of this, I am doing a diagnostic of the community, where I have to go to 100 houses (yea … 100—I know, right?) to survey the current state of health in the community. I’m incredibly intimidated, but I have kind of a plan, so we’ll see how it goes.

As far as sickness, I’ve just accepted it as part of the Peace Corps experience. I clean my water and watch what I eat, but little changes the fact that this environment is totally new to my body. It’s really cute how my host family tries to help though. It’s never the water or the food, they tell me, it’s the shower I took after lunch, that I walk too much, or I ate a mango and an egg during the same meal. *shrug* What can you do?

The emotional trials have actually caught me by surprise. We unfortunately, had to say goodbye to two of our friends in Tumbes because of security reasons in their sites. As Tumbes is the smallest department in Peru, we were really grateful that they were moved somewhere safe but super bummed that they had to leave. It brought our numbers from 10 total in the area to eight and took a big chunk out of support system. With the whole shock of starting in our sites by ourselves and missing everyone and everything during the holidays, it gets a little rough. But everyone seems to be taking it in stride. My saving grace? The Office on DVD, Harry Potter, and Dame Chocolate (the best latin soap opera EVER).

Integration, however, I think has been the most fun. Integration is what makes all of the above worth it. December is a month of quinceñeras, weddings, graduations and Christmas parties. But it’s also about lazy afternoons with cold Pepsi and mangos, lying on a hammock, or slow walks to the river. Good long conversations or just sitting in silence, watching the evening go by. And the beach … oh, man the beach is amazing …

A group of kids and I made a deal in my first week: I teach them English, and they teach me how to dance. Since then, we’ve had a series of impromptu English/Dance classes at the health post. Brandon, 9, is my dance partner. He’s about a foot and half shorter than me and is absolutely adorable. Not to mention that kid can move.

Anyway, so that’s my life so far. I’m 3 weeks into my service, and I know this is only the start. It’s going to get harder. But with an embracing community, amazing volunteers and a warm beach nearby, I really can’t complain.

Now … here’s hoping I don’t get malaria.

A (super quick) Photo Tour of my site


My house.
My room! My mosquito net has turned out to be quite useful. Not so much for the mosquitos, but for the flies. For some reason, I come home in the afternoon to find a lot of dead flies on my net. How they die, I have no idea. But for their sake I hope it´s quick and painless.


My backyard, where we keep our chickens, turkeys, dogs, cat and monkey (Garu--he´s adorable).


My handwashing station. Small victory so far: My host brother uses it, too!


My SODIS water bottles. The sun kills the parasites and bacteria in the water. Unfortunately, there´s a belief here that leaving water out in the sun will get you sick ... But my host mom is slowly getting into it. All of our juices are made from the SODIS water.